3.1 Phillip Lim Menswear Spring 2011
“Bougie rockers, rollers and strollers, come as you are!” So went Lim’s guiding principle and yes, the collection was as eclectic as it sounds. “What they have in common is they’re modern dandies,” he added.
Lim courageously pushed the limits of masculinity with embellishment and by revealing the body. The painstaking work that went into beaded paisley embroidery and appliquéd ribbon striping was plain to see.
So was the thought that Lim put into his modern tailoring, often constructed with zippers and complicated piecing, sans collars or lapels. Tricky clothes in service of a high concept are one thing, but this challenging collection simply lacked focus. In recent years, the Phillip Lim man has grown manlier, stronger and more assured. This show felt like a step backward. via WWD