Giorgio Armani A/W 2009-10
Sunday, April 5th, 2009
Contemporary with a deliberate sense of shape: a dual approach that transcends that boringly traditional look so often confused with classic style. A new way of dressing in which the choice of fabrics and their combination in different weights results in a totally renewed vision of the classic, a union of powerful fabrics that emphasises the impact of the garment.
A fitted silhouette with restrained saddle shoulders defines the formal wear, while the sportswear, with its recognisable urban flavour, goes for soft volumes and suggests warmth without bulk. Even the padded jackets appear light, as though deconstructed, with neat linings in plush pile, while the parka comes in lined leather and the caban in ultra light sheepskin.
Colours are mostly dark - including brown juxtaposed with grey - sometimes with a velvet sheen, sometimes with a matt finish, always emphasising the general mood of elegant restraint. Knitwear features tapestry-style mixed patterns, maximising the depth of the colours - the effect is disciplined, and set off by the formal jackets.
This duality - dark/colourful, coarse/soft, classic/contemporary - is the key theme running through this deeply considered and precisely designed collection, in which scarves can be worn as shirts to impart vivacity to the formal jackets, while the trench seems to evolve into a cloak. Shoes are as significant as ever, reinstating traditional and chunky shapes in combination with unexpected touches of whimsy, reflecting the personality and individuality of the wearer.
SKITSCH, headed by Renato Preti, will include furniture and accessories from a wide range of designers such as Maarten Baas, Kiki Van Eijk, Joost Van Bleiswijk, Minale-Maeda, Philippe Nigro, Van Eijk & Van der Lubbe, the Campana Brothers, Front, Marc Sadler and Bertjan Pot, to name just a few of the 24 designers who have created over 50 eclectic projects for the line under the artistic supervision of Christina Morozzi. SKITSCH will be launched during the Salone del Mobile with the opening of a flagship store in the heart of Milan.
Designed and manufactured in Japan, the Sport Shu is a modern reissue of a PF Flyers classic first introduced in the 1940s. The shoe, available in original black and natural colorways only, features contrast stitching detail, unique rubber-patterned foxing, original PF logo and leather patching on the eyerow.
