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In 1994, Gucci axed most of its staff and promoted a 36-year old studio assistant named Tom Ford to the position of creative director. A native of Santa Fe, Ford had studied at New York University before dropping out to act in television commercials. He later enrolled at the Parsons School of Design in New York and Paris to study interior and fashion design. He spent the late '80s working for designers Cathy Hardwick and Perry Ellis, before joining the Gucci team in 1990.

Tom Ford overhauled Gucci's fusty image by marketing decadence and sensuality to an AIDS-conscious society that had "forgotten about sex". Velvet hipster trousers expressed the '90s ambivalent ethic of sexual containment: androgynous, sensual to the touch, for people who want to feel and look sexy for themselves, as well as -- or perhaps instead of -- for others. Metallic leather stilettos sharpened our image, giving us an aggressive stance while bruising our feet. White jersey dresses with tactically positioned oval cut-outs quoted Halston and the sex-spree days of Studio 54. And nothing, apparently, is sexier than money: Ford's leather thongs embedded with scarlet-sequinned "G"s over the hip bone came with a hefty 2000-franc price tag.

 

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