ACNE Jeans SS 2006
"The only way for a fashion designer to look forward is by taking the past and realigning it so that it can serve the purposes of the future."
Acne Jeans is a journey of constant evolution. Since 1997, when we started off making 100 pairs of jeans and distributed them to friends and family, we have developed our own unique style in the jeans-market by searching, questioning and experimenting. As our brand is growing we now spend more time than ever altering our working methods, and as a result we are proud to introduce an eclectic collection that is radically different from our previous work, while still embodying the clean, modernistic design that has become our signature.
Our formative idea of pairing innovative jeans styles with a versatile wardrobe - ranging from easy cotton T-shirts to tailored dinner jackets to luxurious accessories - has matured confidently with the spring / summer 2006 collection. By looking at the legacy of popular culture we have tuned into a mood we feel is relevant for the present. In other words, we have gone a little bit vintage without going retro.
The inspiration from a stylistic perspective are certain personalities who are blessed with a natural fashion sense: those who can effortlessly balance modern designer clothes with second-hand and favorite pieces from their own wardrobe. From this comes two strong components - evening wear and street wear - and the new Acne Jeans season is about the unexpected marriage between these two.
To give an example: Imagine an old photograph of Bianca Jagger swooshing into Studio 54 in a glamorous, but simple satin wrap-dress that trembles in the warm New York breeze as she enters hurriedly into the heaving club. To hit this opulent late seventies note we have created a belted blouse in brilliant satin that wraps sensuous around the upper body. Paired with jeans and high, elegant wedges the look is no longer overdressed but has a modern dash-out-the-door practicality.
In another photograph we see ballet dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov enjoying a moment surrounded by the most glamorous women in the world. Baryshnikov, however, is dressed down, casual in a narrow shirt and jeans. Still, he makes the women in their fancy evening dresses look plain and old fashioned. It is the sexiness of his attitude in a shirt and tight high waisted jeans that makes him look modern and sensational today.
The high waisted jeans is our new silhouette, for both women and men. In addition to our classic pieces - the slim, low cut jean, the easy T-shirt, the dinner jacket - the spring / summer season branches into a variety of small sections. We always like to include a formal part and this time it comes in the form of a silver buttoned black naval uniform jacket, both in a long and narrow, and short and boxy edition. The naval look can achieve a leisurely maritime air with the boat-neck T-shirt and wide sailor pants, fit for the French riviera.
Another important style is the customized and patched jeans that are deconstructed into long and short belted jackets and buttoned waistcoat, something that a young Charlotte Rampling might have opted for as a starlets in the late sixties, pairing the washed out jeans look with paisley: a pattern echoed in crisp men's shirts as well as towering open toe pumps for women.
A fusion between the Japanese kimono and the classic Chinese court dress is adapted with subtlety into a blouse of graceful softness, made only out of two flat pieces gathered at the sides - wide three quarter length sleeves - cinched at the waist with a rope as belt. Again, it works at any occasion: with jeans it could just as easily appear on the street as at a party.
Turning something preconceived into something utterly different is also our Mad Max inspiration of the season. As this leather look belongs to street-style we have turned the sexiness of highway riot into sophisticated, even smooth city wear. Details from the rough biker style is found in silver buckles applied on jackets as well as shoes, such as the elegant but mischievous women's suede strapped wedges. To epitomize the Acne Jeans' mix of evening and street wear this season, we look at the feminine romantic tulip dress and the tough masculine biker jacket as perfect partners in one outfit.
Some of our other favorites from the collection is the full women's skirts with suspenders, the wide bell-bottom trousers in grey wool, the buttoned puff-sleeved top, our suede shoes and accessories, and the large leather bags for work, fun and travel. We are also confident in a novelty: a light cotton shirt tailored as a dinner jacket. Tucked into jeans: could it be the new rigueur?
All our suits, shoes, bags and accessories are produced in Italy.